The driver side header is a very straightforward install. After removing the existing exhaust manifolds/headers, you have to disconnect the steering shaft so the long tube will slide into place. The steering shaft will go through the #6 and #7 primary tubes, so just leave the steering shaft hanging until you get the header bolted in. I had a problem with the header gaskets staying in place, so I used the studs on the corners of the gaskets to help keep them in place. This approach is easier than trying to keep the gaskets in place and trying to get the new bolts started at the same time. Other than the corners, I used the replacement bolts supplied with the kit. The bolts on this side are very accessible from the front and back of the motor, so the installation process should go smoothly.

The passenger side header is a much trickier installation process. There are a few problems that other people have run into with this header, but I found a solution. If you have access to a lift, I would highly suggest using it. The removal of the K member would also give you more clearance and make the installation easier. The K member is easy to drop and can be removed in 45min with air tools. The only other thing you will need is something to support the engine while the K member is out of the car. The instructions say to unbolt the motor mount on the passenger side and jack up the motor. I think the removal of the K member is still the easiest and most convenient way though. 

After deciding which route you are going to take (removal of K member or jacking up the motor), remove the existing header/exhaust manifold (if you haven’t already). Now that you have room to work between the block and the strut tower, you can fix the first potential problem the long tubes might create. The Air-conditioning lines have been burned on a few other cars that have done this modification, so here is a quick simple solution. The AC lines are held in place by a bracket. In the stock location of the brackets, the lines are very close to the header. All I did was take the bracket off the line, turn it around so the tab is facing downwards and drill a hole about 4-6 inches above the stock hole location. Pull the line up so the bracket will fit in the new hole and put a bolt through it (as shown in Picture 1). Now we have one potential problem solved.

On the passenger side, I used the same stud technique (as in the driver side header) to hold the gaskets in place. After getting the gaskets set and the studs in place, slide the header on and start threading the bolts. There is another problem you will run into while putting in the bolts. The #1 primary tube blocks three of the top bolts so it will be a pain to get them started (this is the whole reason I suggest dropping the K member). There really is no solution to gaining access to these bolts behind the #2 primary, but you just have to use a wrench instead of a socket. 

I also had to get a hammer and dent two of the primaries on the passenger side because the Lakewood bell housing for the TKO would not allow the header to fit straight. I do not know if this will be a problem on the T-45 transmissions, but it may be something to look at before tightening all the bolts to the head. With these headers the transmission can be taken off the car without loosening/pulling off either header. That is a major PLUS in my opinion. 

After tightening the nuts and bolts on the headers, there is one last problem you will run into. You will notice that the O2 sensor wiring harnesses will not reach the new locations of the O2 sensors. I did not see anything in the instructions that mentioned cutting the wires on the harnesses and adding more wire to it, but that is one solution. The solution I went with is to buy an O2 harness "extension". It just plugged straight into the existing harness on each end and was a simple answer. No cutting, soldering, adding butt connectors, etc. I just put some wire loom around the excess wire and used wire ties to hold it in place. 

Now all that is left to do is bolt the rest of the exhaust up and take the car for a spin. The headers made a noticeable difference in power. I do not have any REAL results from the headers alone, but I can tell it added a nice amount of torque in the lower and mid range (besides, they sound really AWESOME). 

This is one of the best modifications I have done to the car, and believe me, I have been through a lot. I hope this article will help you on your installation and help you avoid any potential problems. If there is any questions or areas I haven’t covered, please feel free to post on the SSOTN tech board or email me at sadkins@superstallions.com .

All the work in this article was performed by myself and Spurgeon Adkins of Adkins Drag Racing in Vienna, GA. 

Picture 1: This is the final product after drilling a new hole and bolting the bracket in place. You can see the factory hole location at the bottom left side of the picture.

Picture 2: Passenger side clearance with the K member removed. 

Picture 3: Driver side clearance with K member removed. This picture also shows where the steering shaft sits between the header. 

Picture 4: Here is the finished product after bolting up the headers. You can see the O2 harness "extensions" on the driver side header here. 

Picture 5: Another view of the final product. Again, you can see the O2 harness "extensions" in this picture.